Hey guys,

Not too long ago I purchased a brand new 2004 red R6 (it was the last 2004). Although I’m being a proud owner I have some issues with the little bastard, she and I don’t always “think” together.

First, let me just say that I have a long history with offroad motorcycles (2xKTM and one WR over 10 years) but this is my first road bike. I have been ridden road bikes before but it was only on rare occasions.

Another thing, the bike is brand new so I’m still nursing it, it has only 650km by now meaning RPM < 7000.

I just came back from riding, so I have the “issues” fresh on my mind so I just spit out:
1. What gear do you usually use when turning on a street corner? I try to use 2nd gear but at such a low speed the RPM sometimes is below 3000, which is very slow, so I have to use the clutch to make smooth turn. Also, is it ok to drop it into 1st gear?
2. What RPM do you usually change gears? I noticed I can get a smooth change if only if I change 1st->2nd at ~3500 RPM, 2nd->3rd at ~5000 RPM. Otherwise the gear makes a loud “clank” noise.
3. What RPM do you usually cruise on? I’m asking because when if I cruise at 5000 RPM and just drop the throttle the bike is very aggressive, as I would expect, but it still feels unnatural.
4. This relates to the previous question. It seems like the throttle is not very linear/sensitive. I find it very hard reducing speed by just a little, like it’s all or nothing. Is this normal?

The bike is still in stock condition, meaning new improvements whatsoever. Of course it I might be the problem, when I bought a road bike I expected it to behave more like a car (quite gear box, smooth throttle), so maybe I just need to get used to it.

Many thanks to who ever managed to read this far :)
Ronen

First I answer the last. Your thinking that you'd expect this bike to react or feel any way like a car is your first problem. An R6 isn't a road bike.

It is a race bike that has been made street legal. There were no sacrifices to power and performance to bring it on the street.

Going with the turns on the street... how fast are you going? If you're talking a 100km corner in the hills or something than that would be a differnet situation then dealing with a city-scapes traffic issues and city blocks. If I'm in town I'll lug 2nd gear (well I'll lug 3rd gear but thats because I've changed my gearing). Don't be afraid to drop back into 1st. Just be aware that 1st is going to be jerkier because it is a much more aggressive gear. You can buy a bigger rear sprocket like one thats 2 teeth bigger. This will tighten up you gears a little and bring the rpms up at any given speed.

As for changing gears and the rpm. Personnally I run my shifts high. I generally shift out at 7k or higher. But I race on the side, so revving up is just how I ride. Where you are changing is fine you could go higher without any troubles. The bike red lines at ~16k, it's alright to use it.

Now with the trottle... at what rpm are you having this non-linear feeling? Keep in mind that power really comes on at around 7-8k rpm (basically where the numbers get bigger in font size on the face of the tachometer). So if you're anywhere nears this range you'll notice marked changes on and off the trottle. You may also want to have a friend ride your bike that has street bike experience. It's possible that you have a poorly adjusted throttle position sensor. These bikes are fuel injected and rely havily on the information from various sensors to make the bike respond the way it was designed.

Do you have any riding experience? Dirt, cruiser, street to give you some starting point? This will help try to explain things and get to the bottom of your problems if you do have some.

-cheerio

Thanks fireohink.

I think your first sentence explaining this is a race bike adjusted for street riding is the key element here. I was expecting something more settle and calm merely because this bike is categorized as a road bike. I would have to internalize the idea first.

I will elaborate some more about my experience. I had 2 KTM motorcycles a 400cc and later a 620cc, and just before the R6 I had a Yamaha WR400, all of this happened in the last 10 years so I'm pretty experienced with offroad bikes but no road experience.

When I said turning I meant city driving, at the traffic light or just at the corner of the street. I don't recall the exact speed but I guess it's something near the 20-30km/h. I found the 2nd gear to be too weak for this kind of speed (RPM ~2500) so the options are either shifting down to 1st or playing with the gas/clutch lever. Replacing the sprocket is a good idea, I don't mind exchanging some top speed with more power on lower RPM.

You say it is right to change gears at about 5000 RPM. Do you also have this hard "clank" coming from the gearbox? It reminds me very much of changing gears on my offroad bikes. Again, it might be my expectations for something more settle.

Last .. as for the throttle .. you got me curious .. so you say it's not just a cable there but something like an electric potentiometer? Now that you've mentioned the bike relies on different sensors to adjust the throttle sensitivity I do recall the problem is not consistent. I'm quite sure because I was so happy to finally master the use of the throttle when it happened again yesterday. Is there any method of checking that?

As I said before the bike is still very new (it has only 650km so far) and my mechanic told me to wait at least for the 1000km first service so everything will "sink in" and he will take a look then, but I was so upset with it yesterday that I had to ask.

And again, thanks for the answer.

Your bike does have a throttle cable coming from the handle to the fuel injector rail. But that only controls the primary butterfly. Your fuel injectors have two sets of butterflies and nozzles. One controlled by you, and one controlled by the bike. So I a sensor goes out of whack you can essentially be argueing with your bikes computer as to how things should be done.

As far as testing the sensors, you'll need to get a copy of a Yamaha Service Manual. You can usually snag one off Ebay (http://www.ebay.com). Or get it from the dealer. And you'll need an electrical multi-meter. The service manual will tell you what the various ranges are for the output of the sensors. I have an older copy for '99-'02s but that was before fuel injection, otherwise I'd email you a copy of the specs.

As to the clunk when shifting. I think what you're feeling is normal. I can't be 100% because I'm not there. Basically a bike gearbox is very different from a car or truck. A bike is always in gear. and the different cogs are all in a row like an abacus. As you shift up, the gears are slid from the one side to the other one-by-one. Now on each cog there are little pegs that stick out , these are your shift dogs, and the go into slots in the gear next to it. So the clunk you feel is the dog sliding into the slot of the next gear. (I'm pretty sure) this should get better as you get some clicks on you bike and the parts wear down a bit. Right now everything is real sharp and tight inside, so the clearances aren't very favorable to smooth opperation.

Now take a bike like mine, I've ridden her hard the whole time. It has developed a nice forgiving trans because of the mild slop. And it's not really slop even. Just worn well, like your favorite pair of shoes they're stretched in all the right places. This will happen to the bike as well, it'll wear in all the right places ....if you follow good maintence....and feel comfortable and right jsut like the old pair of shoes.

And again don't be afraid to drop back into first. I'd recommend that over slipping the clutch myself. I'm a fan of having positive contact in a gear then that vague clutch slip. One wrong bump in the road and you let the clutch out wrong and you put yourself in a position you don't want to be in.

you really have to try and see what feels most natural to you.
I personally use 1st gear for most slow corners i.e. in town but if you are finding the throttle a little sensitive then try just using the back brake a bit to help control your speed.
Obviously you don't really need to use the rear brake for most other riding (after all, if you are braking hard into a corner the rear is often so light that the back brake has little more than a stabilising affect) - this doesn't apply in the wet though - go for 60 - 40% front to rear balance.

Ditto on the rear brake. Unless you're a bostrom, I wouldn't even bother trying to use it. I've gone through like 6 sets of front pads and still have the original rears.

I'd cut the pedal off if it'd still pass inspection without it.

Just an update (I don't ride that often now days - f*#$ raining).

I tried shifting down to 1st today, it was smooth and nice, strong yet controllable. I was really surprised. As I mentioned before I come from the offroad arena, and shifting down to 1st means you gonna get way too much power, again, I was very surprised.

As for the rear, I use it only for complete stops when riding easily (say stopping at the lights), otherwise always the front. Exception to the rule is if it rains or I'm carrying a passenger.

Thanks for the help guys.