i have a r6 2004 and i am going to race with it. i want to know how to deactivate the mechanism that , when you put the 1st gear shuts the engine off when the side stand is out.. i want to know also some tips to put on the bike and want to know how to tune the suspension on the track... the supersport teams dont have setups online or so?
tks

Simple! All you need to do is disconnect the side stand sensor and jump the terminals together. Or you could just cut the wires and twist them together.

You would need to make a good chart on how the bike works with its suspension, then compare your riding habits and intentions for riding. Then you must factor in your weight, height, and stance on the bike. This way you will be able to understand where YOUR weight sits and where the bikes weight sits. You adjust height and damping accordingly.
And never forget what your tires are meant for, Its east to get carried away on a tire that may not hang on for too long.

You dont need to chart anything. But you will need the help of some friends and a few supplies.
Supplies:
1 roll of masking tape
1 Sharpee permenant marker
1 tape measure with as small gradients as possible
(I usually use a metric one)
PRELOAD
Now get dressed up in your full riding gear. Boots, Helmet, Gloves, Leathers, the whole bit.
Stand the bike up with the help of your friends.
Push down on the front suspension. Measure from the bottom of the tree to the axle. This measurement will be f1
Lift up on the handlebars. Measure from the bottom of the tree to the axle. This will be f2.
Now (f2-f1)/2 will give you your free setting.
Get on the bike in you normal race position and make the same two measurements and get your average. This will give you loaded setting.
You want to have aproximately 30-35 mm of sag in the front. To add or lower sag you add preload.
To measure the rear sag you want to use a point directly above the rear axle. This is were the tape and marker come in handy because you need to keep using the same reference point to make all your measurements.
For the rear you want approx. 25-30mm of sag. And again you adjust this with preload.
This will get the bike to stand in a good portion of the suspension travel both front and rear.[/b]

REBOUND DAMPING
With the bike at rest and off its stand, firmly push on the triple clamp (don't hold on the brake or push the handlebar) or seat. When you let go, the suspension should rebound quickly to its original position--but not beyond. If it takes more than approximately one second for the suspension to return to position, less rebound damping is needed. If the fork or shock over-extends past its free sag, and then compresses again, more rebound damping is required. Street riding entails many different pavement characteristics, and the road is generally bumpy compared to a racetrack, so it's better to err on the soft side if you are unsure. This will also give you the added benefit of a smooth ride for daily use; you can always dial in a tad more rebound when you get to your favorite road where the surface is more of a known quantity

COMPRESSION DAMPING
It is difficult to set compression damping without riding your motorcycle and feeling how its suspension works. What feels nice and plush at a standstill may turn out to be too harsh at speed, and compression damping is sometimes set by personal preference as opposed to a definite optimum. Start with the compression adjusters in the middle of their adjustment range, and take your bike for a spin. Working with the front and rear individually, soften the damping adjuster, and try your bike again over the same road. Is your handling better? Worse? The same? Try again, this time with the damping stiffer than what you started with. Continue experimenting, making adjustments accordingly. As with rebound damping, it's always best to err on the light side with compression, and for the same reasons

tks for the great tips.. i know where i set the preload but i dont know where is the rebound and compression damping, i just see one screw to set..

Okay on the front:
You have the big hex head up top, that's your preload.
You have the little screw in the center of the top, that's rebound damping.
You have the little screw at the bottom of each fork tube, that's compression damping.

Now on the shock out back:
You have the big collar, that's preload.
You have the screw on the resevoir, that's compression damping.
You have the knobby thing down under by the linkage, that's rebound damping.